Design 50 2024: Fashion/Beauty

For this year’s Design 50 list, we organize everyone by category.

Design 50 2024: The Fifty People Who Shape Chicago (Introduction)
Design 50 2024: Graphic Design
Design 50 2024: Industrial Design/Innovation
Design 50 2024: Planning/Community
Design 50 2024: Home/Interior
Design 50 2024: Architecture

Here are those who shape Chicago’s Fashion.

Shani Crowe
Hailing from Chicago’s South Side, Shani Crowe explores cultural coiffure, adornment and beauty rituals related to the African diaspora. With a practice deeply rooted in connectivity, the interdisciplinary artist, who learned how to braid as a child, draws from the past—her heritage as well as Black culture—to create for the future. Known for her intricate cornrowed hairstyles captured in large photographic portraits, Crowe’s artwork and performances have been showcased worldwide, including the Broad in Los Angeles, “Saturday Night Live” (in collaboration with Solange Knowles), the Museum of Contemporary African and Diasporan Art in Brooklyn, the Urban Institute of Contemporary Art in Grand Rapids, Columbia University and Soho House Chicago. She is also part of the ensemble representing the United States at the 2018 Venice Architecture Biennale. “As an Afrofuturist, I admire the future-forward art direction in hip-hop and R&B in the late nineties and early 2000s. The visuals that accompanied TLC’s ‘FanMail’ album imagined Black women in virtual spaces, interfacing with AI, with bold hair design and sci-fi inspired textiles,” says Crowe about her recent piece, “ATOMZ,” created as part of Norman Teague’s recent “A Love Supreme” exhibition. Inspired by drum patterns and layered sounds to create her intricate braid work—portraits that aim to reveal humanity’s divine essence, showcasing beauty as an inherent truth. (Vasia Rigou)

Joe Freshgoods
Every Now & Then
Joe Freshgoods makes authentic Chicago streetwear. But that’s just one of his many creative undertakings. Blending brand narratives with historical and cultural references, he connects with audiences far beyond the Midwest. As he documents life via clothes—his “Thank You Obama” Collection is a good example—he supports, connects and inspires those around him. Every Now & Then, a store launched in 2022 under the visionary leadership of Freshgoods and team, is a dynamic creative hub in Chicago dedicated to nurturing emerging artists across multiple media. Through pop-up installations, panel discussions and brand collaborations, the West Side designer and creative director’s work is wildly sought after, and his collaborations with major brands including AT&T, McDonald’s, the Chicago Bears and New Balance have been highlighted in major publications including Vogue and GQ. But his true passion lies beyond fashion (which one could say he essentially uses as a medium): Freshgoods is deeply committed to community involvement and arts education, using his collections to tell compelling stories that resonate worldwide. (Vasia Rigou)

Abigail Glaum-Lathbury/Photo: Joseph A. Mietus

Abigail Glaum-Lathbury
The Genuine Unauthorized Clothing Clone Institute
“The Genuine Unauthorized Clothing Clone Institute is a project born out of desire and alienation,” says artist and designer Abigail Glaum-Lathbury, who developed her project’s garments in an unexpected way: Each piece in the collection starts from a digital print of a fitting-room-mirror selfie. Her innovative approach involves repurposing these images to transform luxury-brand items (Gucci, Marc Jacobs and others) into “clones,” minus any trademarked logos or patterns. Her mission? To challenge conventional notions of originality and brand value, highlight the restrictive nature of copyright laws, and position fashion as a tool for social critique and change. Through her practice, Glaum-Lathbury, who is the newly appointed Fashion Department Chair at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, urges us to rethink how clothes are made, valued and worn, advocating for a more inclusive and critically engaged approach to what we wear. (Vasia Rigou)

Azeeza Khan
Azeeza
Between elegance and empowerment, Azeeza focuses on making women look and feel their best. Their brand’s vibrant, hand-dyed silk fabrics and ultra-feminine designs embody movement and femininity and its commitment to ethical sourcing, size inclusivity and meticulous design processes sets it apart. Designed to create unique fashion moments, Azeeza’s pieces have caught the eye of celebrities including Barbra Streisand, Beyoncé, Hailey Baldwin and Jennifer Lopez. But she didn’t stop there: Forging collaborations that spotlight Chicago’s diverse creative scene both locally and globally, Azeeza’s projects include partnerships with major brands such as Nike, with whom she launched an ongoing Air Max Day campaign, and CB2, resulting in a highly successful homeware and interior design collection. Azeeza Khan’s namesake ready-to-wear label debuted at Paris Fashion Week in spring 2015 and hasn’t slowed since. Leaving a corporate nine-to-five job to pursue her fashion dreams has clearly paid off. (Vasia Rigou)

Kristopher Kites
A South Side native, Kristopher Kites infuses each jewelry creation with vibrant, youthful spirit, drawing inspiration from a mix of elements such as rappers’ flashy diamond chains and beloved childhood cartoons. Known for his playful and unexpected design approach, Kites finds joy in mixing nostalgia with contemporary flair, designing pieces that are both fun and bold. Case in point, his collaboration with Mattel, which features whimsical, boundary-pushing designs like the Masters of the Universe Orko gem—a unique item that doubles as both a chain necklace and a collectible figure. Starting out at eighteen, Kites created his favorite collection, Conversation Pieces—plastic jewelry named for the many conversations it sparked on the street. After launching it, his career took off. Fast-forward to today, Kites is the inaugural Designer in Residence at RSVP Gallery, a boutique co-founded by Don C and Virgil Abloh, and his pieces have been worn by celebrities like J Balvin, Post Malone, LeBron James, and even Beyoncé. (Vasia Rigou)

Ron Louis/Photo: Joseph A. Mietus

Ron Louis
Locale
Using textiles as his canvas, Ron Louis transforms denim into narratives. The South Side artist began his journey in fashion by experimenting with a distinctive tonal blue similar to Yves Klein’s iconic hue during his studies at the International Academy of Design and Technology. This experimentation, initially part of an AF1 project, became a signature element across his creations, highlighting the nuances of wash-and-wear narratives found in traditional workwear. His designs elevate rugged, distressed denim by embedding stories of blue-collar workers within every thread and embellishment. Louis has a collaboration with Coach under his belt: A pop-up event at the Coach Play Chicago boutique on Michigan Avenue, where he customized a ready-to-wear denim collection, sneakers and purses, and live-printed Coach T-shirts alongside his business partners at Locale, a design, print and production company. Beyond his design work, Louis is passionate about fostering connections within the creative community, building a network of resources that help artists collaborate and thrive. Next up: “I am diving into fine jewelry and developing my own signature denim. Furniture in the near future,” he says. (Vasia Rigou)

Sebastian Malczewski/Photo: Joseph A. Mietus

Sebastian Malczewski
Marc Nolan
For Sebastian Malczewski, style is a family legacy. Raised in a fashion-forward household, Malczewski mastered the art of detailed, statement-making fashion from a young age. After moving to America, he carved a niche in the fashion world under the mentorship of his friend named Marc in New York City. This experience inspired the creation of Marc Nolan in 2018, a brand named to honor his mentor as well as his son, Nolan, aiming to provide stylish, high-quality shoes at accessible prices. The brand skillfully blends classic and contemporary styles in its unique range of sneakers, boots and loafers, designed for “interesting people,” and has garnered a loyal following among locals and celebrities alike, including Robert Downey Jr., Ethan Hawke and David Harbour. With a flagship store in Chicago and a second location in Atlanta, Marc Nolan stands as a testament to heritage and relentless entrepreneurial spirit—a nod to timeless style and self-expression deeply woven into the tapestry of Chicago’s fashion landscape. (Vasia Rigou)

Caleb Vanden Boom and Laura Oberwetter/Photo: Joseph A. Mietus

Caleb Vanden Boom and Laura Oberwetter
Clue Perfumery
Clue Perfumery finds delight in unexpected sources. Drawing upon surprising references, childhood friends Caleb Vanden Boom and Laura Oberwetter balance surreal vignettes with the comforting, familiar allure of traditional perfumes. Scents like “Warm Bulb,” “Morel Map,” and “With the Candlestick” are meticulously crafted in Clue’s Chicago lab, which prides itself on its hands-on approach, with each scent crafted in-house from formulation to shipment. As Vanden Boom’s design expertise meets Oberwetter’s perfumery skills—inspired by the mundane, the overlooked and the fundamental mystery of smell—Clue makes its mark in the world of bespoke fragrances. Fresh off their nomination at the Art and Olfaction Awards, Clue is gearing up to unveil more groundbreaking scents and collaborations, including their fourth fragrance, “The Point,” later this summer. (Vasia Rigou)

Phil Schade/Photo: Joseph A. Mietus

Phil Schade
1733
After leaving a career in IT consulting and drawing on a background in mechanical engineering, Phil Schade founded 1733. Named after the house number of his childhood home in Philadelphia—the home is still occupied by his parents—1733 embodies both personal and professional evolutions for Schade, who ingeniously embeds a personal touch into the brand’s identity. Specializing in transforming highly technical materials, typically used in alpine gear, into essential accessories for daily life, 1733 operates from a studio in West Garfield Park. Schade and his team of three focus on small-batch, in-house manufacturing, supplemented by high-quality domestic factory production. This approach ensures each piece is not only durable and functional but also beautifully unique. As 1733 celebrates its tenth anniversary, the brand continues to push the boundaries of design and functionality. Schade’s commitment to craftsmanship and innovation is evident in every bag produced, whether for 1733’s signature collection or collaborations with other major local brands and designers. Next up: ‘We look forward to a project with Chicago artist Cody Hudson releasing this summer,’ says Schade. (Vasia Rigou)

Alexandria Wills/Photo: Joseph A. Mietus

Alexandria Wills
Alexandria Wills
Bespoke shoemaker, fashion designer and entrepreneur Alexandria Wills started her journey at age nineteen. From her hometown of Chicago to New York City and Paris Fashion Week, she has spent a decade building a globally recognized brand that emphasizes traditional shoemaking techniques while embracing sustainability. “My new brick-and-mortar store has been my recent obsession,” she says. “We’ve spent most of 2023 creating a larger and updated location compared to my original space in Logan Square, where I was based for six years. The new store is in the Pilsen Arts District on Halsted Street, which is lined with artist storefronts and is home to a monthly art walk on 2nd Fridays.” Beyond bespoke shoes and leather goods—from ready-made items to custom orders—the studio offers shoemaking workshops for all skill levels. “We display ready-made shoes, garments and accessories all handmade in the same place so that clients can see a part of the process. The studio aspect is fused elegantly with the storefront, featuring hanging leathers, natural light on sewing machines, and an inspiring energy throughout. We also developed the studio into a dynamic space for teaching shoemaking workshops, sharing resources, and engineering designs,” she says. “My dream has always been to create a creative hub for friends and the community to engage with, and that is what this space has become. I am very proud of it and enjoy sharing my work with the world.” (Vasia Rigou)

The Hall of Fame: Fashion

Nick Cave

Meghan Lorenz
Cities In Dust

Maria Pinto