Move Over Lip Gloss, Milan Fashion Week Says This Bold Shade Is In For Spring
Buttery-soft leather handbags, tailored wool trousers, silk scarves. No one does understated luxury like the Italians, but this doesn’t mean the country’s most stylish dwellers are timid of vibrant colors, loud prints, or brazenly sexy silhouettes. But would you expect anything less from a fashion crowd who counts Prada, Versace, and Moschino as homegrown design houses? This duality approach to getting dressed was on full display at the Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 runways, from Muccia Prada’s midriff-revealing belted skirt to Gucci’s sheer lace slip dress with briefs worn underneath. It also heavy influenced the collections’ corresponding beauty looks, which combined classic hair and makeup styles with dramatic touches. The result? Modern interpretations that’ll be all over Pinterest in the months to come.
On the makeup front, Gucci’s smudged winged liner lended an indie sleaze vibe to the quintessential ‘60s style, while Marni took the skinny brow trend to new angles with overemphasized arches. Designers also played with the slicked-back bun look that’s become synonymous with the simple and neat clean girl aesthetic. At Jil Sander, models’ curtain bangs were shellacked down to create the flyaway-free updo, while Max Mara doubled down on the buns, styling two knots at the nape of the models’ necks.
Here, TZR highlights the 10 standout makeup and hair moments from the MFW S/S’25 shows.
The Attico’s Mermaid Waves
It wouldn’t be fashion month without a wet look hairstyle or two on the runways, At The Attico, models’ looked like mermaids that just emerged from the water with their damp loose waves and smudged earth tone eye makeup.
Versace’s Rich Brown Lips
When spring lipstick comes to mind, sheer pink shades are likely at the forefront. However, Versace’s latest collection is making the case for season-less lip colors. Instead of going the typical route, Dame Pat McGrath coated models’ lips a rich mahogany brown, a hue that’s typically associated with fall. If you’re feeling inspired, she used the Dramatique Mega Lip Pencil in Flesh 3 from her namesake makeup line. To match McGrath’s self-described “fresh but rebellious makeup”, hairstylist Guido Palau gave models sleek blowouts while some had long blunt bangs.
Gucci’s Indie Sleaze Cat Eye
Gucci Creative Director Sabato De Sarno’s collection was heavy on the ‘60s mod influencers, from the skirt suits to the driving gloves to the eye makeup. For an edgy, modern touch, retro winged eyeliner drawn on with Gucci Beauty’s Stylo Contour des Yeux in Noir was smudged to perfection.
Emporio Armani’s Day-Meets-Night Eyeshadow
“The makeup this season focuses on the interplay of light and shadow, creating a powerful yet refined look”, Armani Global Makeup Artist Hiromi Ueda said in an email release. The result is an illuminated, steel gray winged smoky eye and glossy pink lip. Consider it the perfect going-out look during the transition from winter to spring. The exact products in Ueda’s kit backstage included Armani’s Eye Tints in #99 and #32, Lip Power Matte in #603, and Prisma Glass in #5.
Prada’s Diffused No-Makeup Makeup
Prada’s makeup was particularly subdued compared to the now-viral, eclectic futurism meets retro pieces by Muccia Prada and Raf Simons. Putting a fresh spin on no-makeup makeup, Prada Beauty Global Creative Makeup Artist Lynsey Alexander prepped the skin with Prada Beauty skin products then used the neutral shades from the Dimensions Eyeshadow Palette in 01 and 02 to frame the eyes. On the lips, she applied Prada Balm in Astral Pink for a glowy base, then layered various neutral shades of Prada Monochrome Lipstick on top, or as seen on the model above, a deep plum for a bolder look.
Jil Sander’s Slicked-Down Bangs
A slicked-back bun is universal hairstyle unless you have bangs. However, Jil Sander’s S/S’25 hair presents a solution for anyone who has fringe. Models’ curtain bangs were shellacked down and slightly curled. Paired with a classic matte red lip, the combination created a vintage meets futuristic vibe.
Marni’s Extreme Skinny Brows
There are skinny brows and then there are the sharp angular arches makeup artist Yadim Carranza created for Marni. Extreme was also on the mood board for hairstylist Paul Hanlon who sculpted models’ hair into gravity-defying ‘60s beehives.
Federico Cina’s Floral Lashes
Flowers for spring are groundbreaking when petals are the inspiration for a dramatic runway eyelash look. Inspired by broom florals, canary yellow accents were scattered on the lower and upper lash lines to mimic these blooms in nature. Consider it another sign that this vibrant color will have a moment come April.
Max Mara’s Space Buns
Slicked-back buns have gone from a TikTok aesthetic to a staple hairstyle. If the updo is starting to feel a little tired in your regular rotation, Max Mara suggests doubling up. The S/S’25 show featured two tight knots at the lower nape of the neck.
Luisa Beccaria’s Romantic Mint Eyeshadow
Pastel shades are spring beauty staples because they’re soft, pretty, and easy, just like those first sunny, balmy afternoons of the season. Each color takes its turn having a moment in the spotlight, and for S/S’25 mint green will be a main character. Take a cue from Lusia Beccaria’s runway and halo the shade around your eyes for a simple and romantic seasonal look.
