Cartier Returns to SoHo

Cartier has returned to SoHo, opening a multilevel boutique with a modern proposition for retail while paying homage to the longstanding history the French brand has with New York City.

The new boutique at 102 Greene Street — in the heart of the cast iron historic district — brings the number of Cartier boutiques in Manhattan to three, each in a different conversation with the Big Apple.

“I see these three boutiques in dialogue with one another, each representing a specific moment in New York City’s history and the history of the maison,” explained Cartier North America president and chief executive officer Walter Bolognino.

“At first glance the three appear completely divergent: a Gilded Age mansion uptown, a chic new space amongst the art galleries of Chelsea, and now with SoHo — a converted factory loft downtown. However, each one fits into New York’s larger story of ingenuity, innovation and artistry,” he explained.

The Compagnie Financière Richemont-owned timepiece- and jewelry-maker’s relationship to Gotham runs deep, dating back to 1909 when Pierre Cartier opened its first North American store. The Fifth Avenue boutique, Cartier’s “temple to New York City,” opened in 1912 and was renovated in 2022. The Hudson Yards boutique joined the fold in 2019. The SoHo location marks a new beginning for the brand, which closed a retail location there in 2003 and has since hosted various pop-ups in the area over the years, including one dedicated to fragrance.

“Each time we approach the opening of a new boutique, we consider the ways in which we can continue to honor the 176-year heritage of the maison while creating a space and an experience that is wholly unique, that is in conversation with the culture and dynamic of the region and, in the case of our new SoHo boutique, the neighborhood itself,” the CEO said.

The building comes with its own legacy, having been designed by prolific German architect Henry Fernbach and completed in 1881. Fernbach’s work can be seen along Greene Street to this day, helping to shape the neighborhood’s iconic cast iron aesthetic. “We wanted the boutique to meld seamlessly into both the neighborhood’s history and its trajectory. As such, we designed each floor as an homage to SoHo,” Bolognino said.

The new location comes as luxury retail, particularly hard luxury, is rethinking how boutiques can connect with clients. No longer stuffy or secretive, a new sense of open mindedness and discovery permeates the category.

“Cartier has always valued inclusion and open-mindedness and each new boutique presents an opportunity for us to engage with a different community,” Bolognino said. “102 Greene Street has assumed several identities since it was completed in 1881, including serving as the meeting place for salon-style gatherings of some of the 20th century’s great intellectuals. It is our responsibility to honor the building’s history and the neighborhood’s legacy as a cultural destination. In order to do that, we’ve prioritized creativity and a sense of community.”

The four-floor space was designed by Studioparisien, a Paris-based architectural firm that has designed and renovated several Cartier boutiques, most recently, the brand’s iconic flagship store on 13 Rue de la Paix in Paris. Guests to the boutique are greeted by a 14-foot iron entrance comprised of iron plates and rivets, designed by sculptor William Tarr, who lived and worked in the historic building in the ’60s and ’70s. The door is a piece of history itself and has been recentered but “it was absolutely critical we keep it intact as it’s part of the building’s unique history,” the executive said.

The first floor is known as The Gallery, immersing clients in the full legacy of the French brand, including a mix of its iconic unisex jewelry offerings — Clash, Juste un Clou, Love, Panthére and more — masculine and feminine watches, accessories, the art of living, eyewear and fragrances. A bold artwork of straw marquetry curves along a wall, created by Studio Francois Marcarello, a longtime collaborator with the company. A gallery staircase leads to the second floor with a hand-painted panther mural sat above, inviting customers to continue their journey though the space.

The second floor is called The Speakeasy and hosts a bar for nonalcoholic beverages and lounge seating. A selection of fine and paved jewelry can be found here and the modern idea of hospitality through retail takes shape, offering a contemporary way to connect with clients. “A visit to a Cartier boutique should be a memorable experience that promotes human connection. At the core of this type of experience is hospitality, where the client feels welcomed into our maison, our home,” the CEO said.

The third floor is known as The Loft and was inspired by the downtown loft spaces that doubled as studios and living quarters for creatives in post-war New York. A multipurpose space, it contains a living room, private dining room and library. The private lounge is designated for bridal and fine jewelry appointments and fine jewelry, diamonds, lifestyle, and wedding and engagement collections are available. The brand’s connection to New York City is seen within the dining room — hidden behind glass panels etched with the panther’s claw marks — with another Studio François Mascarello artwork, an abstract map of New York made of colored strips of silk.

“Across the boutique’s four floors, we’ve played with the idea of the speakeasy lounge, the artist’s loft and the rooftop garden — tropes of the neighborhood — as spaces to convene for special events, to engage in authentic conversations, and to host our clients in the most luxurious and intimate ways possible,” Bolognino said.

The store is capped off with a rooftop fourth-floor garden that will bow in 2024, hosting visitors in a lush outdoor space. “We intend to take full advantage of our slice of nature, an oasis, in the heart of city as often as possible,” he said.

Bolognino is new to the Cartier C-suite, joining at beginning of 2023 from Bulgari, where he was managing director for the EMEA region, and taking the reins from Mercedes Abramo, who was promoted to Cartier International as deputy chief commercial officer. “It is a great honor to take the helm at Cartier North America after Mercedes Abramo. She is a person whom I admire and respect a lot. She enabled the brand and the local team to be one of the most dynamic regions for Cartier,” he said.

The executive reported that the brand had a solid strategy in place upon his arrival, and he intends “to continue developing the same strategy while adapting it to the current needs. Keeping the focus on our people, our brand, and our clients is key to further elevating our desirability in North America.”

It is an unsettling time in luxury retail, with global political concerns and the threat of an economic downturn in the U.S. market and brands grappling with a slowdown in demand. “There is currently uncertainty around the U.S. economy and corresponding implications for the luxury industry,” he acknowledged. “Despite the major macroeconomic uncertainty of the past year or so, the luxury sector has proven to be resilient, and several brands continue to experience encouraging growth,” he said.

“Fine jewelry is a $280 billion market — 80 percent of which is unbranded,” the CEO said. “I see the luxury industry overall continuing to grow and offer tremendous opportunity in the years to come. This is an exciting time for us, as Cartier is uniquely positioned in the high jewelry category. We have been designing the most breathtaking creations since our inception, and we continually find new ways to innovate, inspire and delight.”

He pointed out that the French brand has “quite a diversified product mix, which enables a wide range of clients to celebrate their moments with us.” A key to shoring up the brand as it moves into 2024, which will see it open several other North American boutiques including Chicago at the landmarked Rookery Building. “Another iconic piece of architecture in a great American city,” he said.