The final takeaways from Paris Fashion Week
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This season, Paris was in a state of transition.
Luxury fashion’s ongoing slump cast a pall of uncertainty that was felt at many of the Spring/Summer 2025 shows. In reaction, some designers played it safe, others chose to take risks. “I feel in communion with the idea that the time has come for fashion to have a point of view,” Balenciaga creative director Demna said after his show.
“It was a strong Paris season with many great new ideas, but it definitely had its ups and downs,” says Julie Gilhart, former long-time fashion director at Barneys who recently restarted her consultancy Gilhart & Co. “I don’t think it was an ‘in flow’ season. New York had a great flow from high to low with the shows and presentations. Paris — partly because of the weather, a very intense schedule and traffic — was harder to navigate, despite some great showings from large and small designers. Paris didn’t seem 100 per cent ‘in flow’ because there is so much change in the houses — both new and anticipated. It’s a transition time with a lot of hope for the future.”
A strong debut and some strong rumours
The key topic of conversation this season was the designer musical chairs.
Alessandro Michele’s much-anticipated debut at Valentino did not disappoint. It made a big bang, garnering a unanimously positive reaction. The celebrity showing was equally strong. “Valentino had celebrities that we don’t often see at shows, like Elton John, Harry Styles and Andrew Garfield. It was unexpected and refreshing,” says Alexandre Maras, deputy editor-in-chief at celebrity magazine Gala.
Elsewhere, the rumour mill kept churning. Who’s going to snatch the top job at Chanel? Is Jonathan Anderson leaving Loewe? Is Pierpaolo Piccioli going to Fendi? Is Hedi Slimane leaving Celine? Speaking of Slimane, the designer released an unannounced Celine SS25 film on Sunday titled Un Été Français. The Parisian designer sent out a tweed-heavy collection, prompting commentators to believe he is leaving for Chanel. Also, what’s next at Margiela?
